涤纶长丝仿棉经编运动面料的生产工艺

Production process of polyester filament warp knitted sportswear fabric with high simulated cotton appearance

仿棉涤纶长丝织物在染整过程中会发生较大的尺寸变化,给织物生产工艺设定带来较大的难题。为了控制尺寸的变化并找到生产该织物的最佳工艺,设计了3种组织结构、4种上机密度以及2种后整理过程,分析了3种因素对织物密度的影响。结果显示:织物在后整理过程中的横向收缩率大于纵向收缩率;适用于运动面料的组织为经绒平组织,上机密度为20横列/cm;生产工艺流程为:整经→织造→水洗→预定型→染色→复定型→成品;成品的面密度为183.4 g/m2,纵向收缩率为24%,横向收缩率为38.9%,幅宽为160 cm。

Fabrics made by polyester filament with the simulated cotton appearance have large dimensional changes,which increase difficulties of setting processing parameters during fabric production.To control the fabric dimension and find the most optimized process,three kinds of fabric structure,four kinds of on-loom density and two kinds of finishing process were selected and studied.The effect of three factors on the density of fabric was also analyzed.Based on the above analyses,it can be concluded that shrinkage of fabrics in weft direction is greater than that in warp direction.The proper structure was the reverse locknit stitch,the on-loom density was 20 row/cm,the final process includes warping→knitting→washing→pre-sizing→dying→sizing→finished product.The mass of the fabric was 183.4 g/m2.The shrinkage on weft direction and shrinkage on warp direction was 24％ and 38.9％,respectively.The fabric width was 160 cm.