论朱程理学对宋代丝织工艺的影响

The Influence of Zhu-Cheng Neo-Confucianism on Silk Weaving Technology in Song Dynasty

朱程理学不仅制约着宋人的思想与行为,它的核心观念也深深地影响了宋代丝织工艺的创作,使得宋代丝织艺术一改唐人的浪漫气质与诗意华章的美学追求,转而走上了文质彬彬的道路,强调的是一种典雅秀丽、理性文静的美。理学不仅影响了宋人着装观念的转变,而且也促进了宋代丝织工艺的改革与创新,比如缂丝、刺绣与织锦工艺等。宋代缂丝创新了掼戗、构戗、结戗、搭棱、子母经、长短戗、包心戗,以及参和戗等一些新技法。而刺绣工艺在宋代也达到了前所未有的高度,亦能做到"格物致知"的艺术境界。

Zhu-Cheng neo-confucianism not only restricted the people＇s thought and behaviors in Song dynasty,but also deeply influenced the creation of silk weaving technology in Song dynasty. It changed romance and poetry pursuit of people in Tang dynasty in silk weaving technology in Song dynasty to the way of simplicity and elegance in harmony,and stressed elegant,rational and quiet beauty. Neo-confucianism not merely influenced the change in people＇s wearing attitude in Song dynasty,but also promoted the reform and innovation of silk weaving process in Song dynasty,such as K＇o-ssu,embroidery and brocade. Song people innovated many new skills of K＇o-ssu,such as Guan Qiang,Gou Qiang,Jie Qiang,Da Ling,Son-Mother Chaine,Long-Short Qiang,Packet-heart Qiang and Blend Qiang. Embroidery technology also reached an unprecedented peak in Song dynasty and could reach the artistic state of studying the nature of things to acquire knowledge.