东中国海波浪分布特征研究

On wave distribution of the East China Sea

以美国国家环境预报中心(NCEP)再分析气象资料作为驱动风场条件,运用第三代海浪模式WAM的第四版本(WAMC4)在西北太平洋海域建立二级嵌套波浪模型,利用连云港、冷家沙现场观测波浪资料对模型进行了验证,检验了该模型在东中国海波浪研究中的适用性针对东中国海进行了连续60年(1950—2909)的波浪后报模拟,在此基础上开展了东中国海波浪时空分布特征研究.结果表明:四季的平均有效波高等值线与岸线形状基本保持一致,且由南向北逐渐递减;有效波高分布的季节差异显著,冬季浪高最大,其次为秋季,春季、夏季最小。通过对比分析平均波浪要素和5%累积频率波浪要素的定量关系发现,在渤海范围内,5%累积频率有效波高与平均有效波高之比约为2.75,黄海与东海大部该比值则分别约为2.50和2.35,而5%累积频率平均周期与平均周期的比值在整个东中国海范围内约为1.45。

The latest version of the third generation spectral wave model,WAMC4,is adopted for the longterm hindcasting of wave climate for the East China Sea.The model is driven by the NCEP reanalysis wind data spanning the period of 1950—2009.A 2-level nested downscaling framework,covering the Northwest Pacific Ocean and the East China Sea is established to simulate both wind and swell waves.The model result is validated against field data at Lianyungang and Lengjiasha.Based on the long-term modelling results,the temporal and spatial wave distributions of the area are obtained.The results suggest that the mean significant wave height decreases significantly from south to north,and its contours are consistent with the coastline.For the seasonal wave distribution,the mean significant wave height is the largest during winter and smallest during spring and summer.Furthermore,by comparing the significant wave field of 5%cumulative probability with mean significant wave field,the quantitative relationship between the two is obtained for different sea areas.