纱线细度对纯棉衬衫面料手感的影响

Influence of Yarn Fineness on Hand Feeling of Pure Cotton Shirt Fabric

探讨纱线细度与面料手感间的关系。采用新型面料触感测试仪对不同细度纱线制备的纯棉衬衫面料的手感进行了测试,分析和比较了纱线细度对纯棉衬衫面料的手感各项指标的影响。研究结果发现,纱线细度对织物的弯曲性能、压缩性能、热学性能和表面性能都有显著影响,随着纱线细度变细,纯棉衬衫面料的弯曲强度降低,压缩强度和回弹强度增大,热导性能增强,最大热流值增大,表面摩擦因数减小。认为:纯棉衬衫面料的纱线细度变细后,面料柔软度、抗折皱性、弹性、保暖性、凉爽感、平整性会得到增强。

Relationship of yarn fineness and fabric hand feeling was discussed. Hand feelings of pure cotton shirt fabrics woven by different fineness yarns were tested by new type fabric touch feeling tester. Influence of yarn fineness on each hand feeling indexes of pure cotton shirt fabrics was analyzed and compared. The study results show that yarn fineness has have a significant impact on fabric properties including bending property,compression property,thermal property and surface property. As the decrease of yarn fineness, bending strength of pure cotton shirt fabric is decreased, compression strength and rebound strength are enhanced, thermal conductance is strengthened,maximum heat flux is enlarged and surface friction factor was reduced. It is considered that fabric softness,anti-wrinkle property, elasticity, thermal retention property, cool feeling and smoothness will be improved after yarn fineness of pure cotton shirt fabric is decreased.