清代汉族服饰变革与社会变迁(1616～1840年)

Han Ethnic Costumes Transformation and Social Changes of Qing Dynasty(1616～1840)

满族入关后,为了在思想和形式上更好地完成统一清初政府实行民族间的服制折中政策,促成独具满汉交融风格的双轨形式。服饰风格既体现出清政府的服制方针又体现了汉族人民的穿着习惯和亡国之思。满汉服饰既各自有本民族特色,又互相融合,在社会生活中呈现出服饰风俗与样式的多变,奠定了1840年以前我国汉族服饰的社会、生活与习俗等方面多元与融合的特征。随着社会的发展,清代服饰的审美风尚也呈现出由俭入奢的变化。在纺织品日益昂贵和奢华的同时以从事纺织业为主的家庭女性的地位也得到了前所未有的提升。

After the entry of Manchu, early Qing government carried out a moderate policy for different ethnic groups, contributing to a unique style of Man-Han double-track costume form, in order to achieve the unification of the whole nation inwardly and in form. The clothing style of this period not only reflected the government＇s policy but also embodied the wearing habits and the subjugation thoughts of the Han people. With an integrating trend, both Manchu and Han ethnic costumes basically maintained their own characteristics with varied clothing customs and styles appeared in social life, which laid diverse and integrating features of the Han folk costume before 1840 relating to the society, life and customs. With the development of society, the aesthetic fashion of Qing apparel showed the change from thrifty into luxury. While the textiles getting increasingly expensive and extravagant, the status of household female engaging in the textile industry also got an unprecedented increase.