虾青素防晒霜稳定性及配方研究初探

Preliminary research on the sunscreen cream based on astaxanthin

虾青素具有极强的抗氧化和清除自由基功能,但见光易分解,稳定性差。为了开发功能性虾青素化妆品,主要以研制虾青素防晒霜为例,对虾青素在不同保存条件下的稳定性,虾青素防晒霜的膏基基本配方进行了初步研究。结果表明虾青素在石蜡油、低温(4℃冰箱)、避光保存条件下稳定。通过紫外吸收和感官评价,在基本膏基配方为10%硬脂酸、1.5%十六醇、1%羊毛脂、5%石蜡油、4.26%单硬脂酸甘油酯、1.74%十二烷基硫酸钠、2.5%甘油、73%去离子水时,虾青素添加量不同,防晒效果也不同。

This paper studied the stability and preservation condition of astaxanthin as well as the optimum sunscreen formulas in which astaxanthin was added to the cream on different conditions. Results indicated that astaxanthin was most stable in paraffin oil, next in vegetable oil and the least in glycerol. The best preservation condition was in fridge, direct sunlight must be avoided. The best cream formula was composed of 10% of stearie acid, 1.5% of cetanol, 1% of lanolin, 5% of paroline, 4.26% of glyceryl monostearate, 1.74% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 2.5% of glycerol and 73% of deionized water. The sunscreen cream containing astaxanthin had been confirmed to have a certain protective effect in UVB area. It provided evidence for astaxanthin to be a new type of ultraviolet absorbent.