可可壳色素对真丝织物染色性能研究

Research on Dyeing Behavior of Silk Fabrics with Cacao Shell Pigment

为了研究天然染料可可壳色素对真丝织物的染色性能和染色真丝织物防紫外线性能,通过正交实验方法获得最佳染色工艺,并测定了不同染色真丝织物的紫外光透过率及UPF值。结果表明:可可壳色素直接染色的最佳工艺为色素相对真丝织物的质量分数2%,p H值5,时间60 min,温度70℃,浴比1︰50,前媒法处理的最佳工艺条件为媒染剂质量分数2%,媒染时间30 min,媒染温度70℃,浴比1︰50。真丝织物经过可可壳色素染色能提高紫外线防护性能,获得较好的耐摩擦和耐皂洗色牢度,但是日晒色牢度较差。

To study the dyeing behavior of silk fabrics with natural dye cacao shell pigment and ultraviolet-proof performance of dyed silk fabrics,this paper obtains the optimal dyeing process with orthogonal test method and determines UV-light transmittance and UPF value of different dyed silk fabrics. The result shows that the optimal process of direct dyeing with cacao shell pigment is as below: mass fraction of pigment phase to silk fabrics: 2%,p H 5,time 60 min,temperature 70 ℃,bath ratio 1︰50; optimal process conditions of pre-mordant processing method is as below: mass fraction of mordant: 2%,mordant dyeing time 30 min,mordant dyeing temperature 70 ℃,bath ratio1︰50. Silk fabrics can have an improved ultraviolet protection property and obtain good color fastness to rubbing and washing after dyeing with cacao shell pigment,but have a poor light fastness.