HPLC技术研究美白类化妆品中熊果苷稳定性

Study on Stability of Arbutin in Whitening Cosmetics by HPLC

采用高效液相色谱法探究了不同剂型美白类化妆品中熊果苷在不同储存条件下的稳定性。将熊果苷定量添加到4种剂型化妆品(化妆水、乳液、膏霜、面膜)中,置于5种预设条件(高温、低温、常温、冷热交替、光照)下储存,经萃取后通过高效液相色谱仪检测熊果苷和氢醌的含量以研究其中熊果苷的稳定性。色谱条件:选用Eclipse XDB-C18柱,以甲醇-水(20∶80,体积比)为流动相,紫外检测波长为280 nm。结果显示在不同储存条件下4种剂型化妆品中均未检出有毒物质氢醌,且熊果苷回收率较高。试验结果表明,4种剂型的化妆品中的熊果苷在5种预设条件下均比较稳定,不易分解为氢醌。

The purpose of this experiment is to explore the stability of arbutin in whitening cosmetics by HPLC.Four types of cosmetics（toning lotion,lotion,cream and facial mask）were made by adding 5 ％ weight of arbutin and then were exposed to pre-conditions,such as high temperature,low temperature,room temperature,etc.and stored for certain days.They were detected by high performance liquid chromatography after extracted.The chromatographic conditions were as follows：Eclipse XDB-C18 column,with methanol-water （volume ratio of 20/80） mixture as the mobile phase,detection wavelength 280 nm.Within 30 days,the arbutin in four types of cosmetics （toning lotion,lotion,cream and facial mask） did not decompose into hydroquinone under 5 designed conditions （high temperature,low temperature,room temperature,high and low temperature shifting and lighting） and the percent recovery was high.The results of the experiment showed that the arbutin in four types of cosmetics were relatively stable and did not decompose into hydroquinone easily.