贴体型针织女上装原型纸样设计研究

Design research of woman's body-fitting knitted apparel prototype

针织面料因具有弹性,在进行服装设计时,其细部尺寸不再是一种简单的比例关系,因此比例分配法、原型法不再适用。以面料测试数据为依托,以设计贴体型针织服装基础纸样为目的,先通过对4种针织面料进行弹性拉伸率的检测,再通过其在不同规格人台和真人身上衣片各部位的立体裁剪测试,得到不同尺寸的贴体型针织女装样板数据。运用数理统计法比较分析立裁所得样板,研究贴体原型定寸的数学原理,进一步推导出贴体型针织女装原型各部位计算公式,提出贴体型针织女上装原型纸样的处理办法,建立贴体型针织女装基本纸样。

Due to its stretch, in designing knitting fabric, the dimention is no longer a simple proportional relationship. Thus the proportion distribution method and the prototype method are no longer applicable in design. Based on the datas of the fabric test and designed for the fitted parts prototype, the elasticity and the drape cutting of four kinds of knitting fabrics were tested and conducted on mannequins and human body of different specifications to obtain the different datas of fitting knitted prototype pattern. Mathematical statistics is used in comparing and analyzing the prototype pattern to study the Mathematical Theory of fix measure of body-fitting prototype and then to further deduce the calculation formula of different parts of Woman＇ s body-fitting knitted garment prototype. The treatment method and establishing of the block pattern of knitted prototype pattern are finally put forward.