纱线条干不匀率对岗花呢面料外观质量的影响

Study on the impact of irregular yarn evenness on the exterior of Gang fancy suiting

采用8种规格相同、条干均匀度不同的经纱和纬纱按一定工艺进行织造,对经过分组优化实验所得16块岗花呢面料的布面疵点及纹理清晰度进行评定,并对试验结果进行排序和分析。针对纱线条干和面料外观质量的关系,找出合理的纱线条干不匀率参数。结果表明:在选定的8种纱线中,当使用的经纱CV值小于15.87%,纬纱CV值小于14.70%时,岗花呢面料的布面疵点少、纹理清晰细腻,质量优良。

In the production of Gang fancy suiting, yarn evenness has a great impact on the exterior of fabrics. Eight warp yarn and weft yarn with the same specification but different yarn evenness were selected and woven according to certain craft, and after group optimization, 16 pieces of fabric made from Gang fancy suiting were tested for the defects on the surface and the texture resolution. Thereafter, ranking and analysis were made for the testing results, and proper influential factors of yarn unevenness were identified in reference to the relation between yarn evenness and fabric exterior. The results indicated that among the eight specifications, when the CV value of the warp yarn was lower than 15.87% and CV value of the weft yarn was lower than 14.70% , there were fewer defects, clearer texture resolution, and better quality on the exterior of Gang fancy suiting.