山羊绒精纺面料开发的思考

Discussion on developing of cashmere worsted fabrics

分析当前我国精纺山羊绒面料的现状,其中原料成本因素是阻碍企业发展山羊绒精纺面料的主要因素之一,精纺面料的整体设计、纺织与后整理加工技术相对落后也限制了山羊绒精纺面料的发展。同时,根据山羊绒精纺面料最终的手感和风格特征的基本要求,结合产品开发实际,提出了发展山羊绒精纺面料需要解决的关键技术问题,如纯山羊绒纺纱支数、山羊绒与其他纤维的混纺及其比例、纱线捻度与织物密度、织物的后整理工序与技术参数等。

In this paper, the state of cashmere worsted fabric in China is analyzed. It is presented that material cost is one of main factors that hinders developing cashmere worsted fabric, as well as the poor overall design of cashmere worsted fabric and the technological lagging in textile and fabric finishing also limit the development of cashmere worsted fabric. Moreover, based on the requirement of hand and style of cashmere worsted fabric, the key technology problems of developing cashmere worsted fabric are raised, such as pure cashmere yarn count, cashmere and other fibers blends, yarn twist and fabric density, fabric finishing processes and its technology parameters.