裂褶多糖保湿功效评价

Moisturizing Effect Evaluation about Schizophyllan

分别采用微波提取和热水提取裂褶多糖,研究微波提取多糖(MES)和热水提取多糖(HWES)在化妆品中的应用性能。采用单一保湿剂体外试验和人体保湿试验两种方法,与对照品(甘油和燕麦β-葡聚糖)进行保湿功效比较研究。体外保湿试验结果表明:在湿温相对度(RH)62%条件下,24 h内保湿性大小顺序为甘油>MES>HWES>燕麦β-葡聚糖>空白;在RH 85%条件下,4 h内保湿性大小顺序为甘油>HWES>MES>燕麦β-葡聚糖>空白,4 h后,MES的保湿率大于HWES。人体保湿试验结果表明:裂褶多糖的保湿效果优于燕麦β-葡聚糖,MES的综合保湿效果较HWES更好,尤其是使用1 h内的即时锁水保湿性更强。

We used two ways to extract Schizophyllan（SPG）, Microwave-assisted extraction polysaccharides（MES）and hot water extraction polysaccharides（HWES）. MES and HWES were studied in the cosmetics about their application performance. They were compared with reference substance（glycerin） and Commodity polysaccharide（β-glucan of oat）with one wet storage agent but two experiment ways, such as experiment in vitro and human body moisture test. The results of experiment in vitro show that moisturizing effect size order： glycerol 〉MES〉 HWES oat β-glucan 〉blank,in the condition of RH 62% and 24 hours; moisturizing effect size order： glycerol HWES〉 MES〉 oat β-glucan 〉blank, in the condition of RH 85% and 4 hours, after 4 hours, the moistutizing rate of MES was higher than HWES＇s.The results of human body moisture test show that the moisturizing effect of SPG was better than β-glucan of oat and MES was better than HWES in the aspect of composite moisturizing effect, especially used after 1 h, MES behaved well in moisturizing effect of lock water immediately. The comprehensive assessment of moisturizing effect about MES was good enough to be humectant of daily used cosmetics.