汉麻多组分纬弹织物的生产

Production of Hemp Multicomponent Weft Elastic Fabric

探讨汉麻多组分纬弹织物的生产要点。以[JC/H 60/40 21.6+JC/Lyocell 50/50 18.2]/JC 18.2(4.44tex)551/331 193纬弹织物为例,介绍了两种经纱的性能指标及织物设计规格;分析了精梳棉汉麻混纺纱的生产要点;保证整经速度恒定、张力均匀及卷绕质量;浆纱工序中,两种经纱选用不同的浆料配方和浆纱工艺;采用Picanol OMNI型喷气织机织造,织机速度550r/min,上机张力2 600N;总结了生产中减少坯布疵点的技术措施;后整理中用酶退浆,进行柔软、防皱整理和预缩、定型。认为:生产的最终产品质量符合设计工艺要求,织物布面丰满,光洁亮丽,悬垂性好,可用于高档休闲牛仔面料。

Production key points of hemp multicomponent weft elastic fabric were discussed. （JC/H 60/40 21.6＋JC/Lyocell 50/50 18.2）/JC18.2（4.44 tex）551/331 193 was taken as examples. Property indexes of two warps and fabric design style were introduced. Production key points of combed cotton hemp blended yarn were analyzed. Constant warping speed, uniform tension and winding quality were guaranteed. In sizing process, different size instructions and different sizing processes were adopted for the two warp. Picanol OMNI air-jet loom was used in weaving. The loom speed was 550 r/min and loom tension was 2 600 N. Technology measures to reduce gray cloth defects in production were summarized. In finishing process,enzyme was adopted in resizing. Softening and wrinkle proofing finishes, preshrunk and setting were proceeded. It is considered that finally product quality can be satisfied the design and technology demands. The fabric surface is plump, bright,clean and colorful. The fabric drapability is better and can be used as top grade leisure jean fabric.