服装立翻领制图方法及细部规格变化比较

Methods for Drafting Upturned Collars and Comparison of Adjusting Sizes of Details

对领子结构设计中最常见的立翻领结构分别采用4种不同制图方法,并在常规取值范围内,逐步改变不同细部规格进行试验,包括领宽、领深和领面领座宽的规格变化,一方面建立平面参数与立体效果对照,为专业学习应用提供直观辅助资料,另一方面找到不同细部规格之间的匹配关系,对已有理论成果和结论公式通过改变细部规格加以验证和修正,扩大应用范围,让理论技术的研究成果有效转化,更具应用价值。

By adopting four methods for drafting common upturned collars in garment structure design and adjusting neck open, neck drop, top collar and under collar width within conventional range, this research aims to analyze the matching relation of sizes of details and contrast flat pattern with three-dimensional form, in order to provide visual aids for teaching, to verify and modify existing theoretical results and formulas, to extend the range of application, and to transform the findings into practical values.