云肩形色之意及其在现代女装中的创新运用

Shape and Color Meaning of Chinese Traditional Shoulder Adornment and Its Innovative Application in Modern Women's Dress

基于江南大学民间服饰传习馆中收藏的云肩进行研究,从而分析其结构与色彩,分别从层次结构、云纹结构和云肩色彩进行较为系统的整理,并将云肩层次结构划分为单片式、层叠式、连缀式、混合式四大类,其色彩归纳为绣片底色、纹样装饰用色、工艺辅助用色三部分。提取出云肩的形色之意并挖掘其艺术特征,将其融入到现代女装设计中。在形的创新运用上,掌握云肩层次结构的间接运用与云纹结构的直接运用;在色的创新运用上,掌握云肩色彩特点与用色规律。研究认为:云肩的形与色具有丰富的艺术形式与深厚的文化底蕴。通过借鉴云肩的形与色,结合现代审美需求,对其在现代女装中创新运用的方法进行探索尝试。既能强调民族文化内涵,又能弘扬中国传统民间服饰,力求开拓云肩在女装设计中传承与创新之路。

Based on the study on Chinese traditional shoulder adornments collected in the folk costume studio of Jiangnan University, this paper analyzes the structure and color, systematically settles them from hierarchical structure moire structure and color and classifies them into monolithic hierarchy, stacked, cluster and hybrid types. The colors are reduced to embroidery background colors, decorative pattern color and process auxiliary color. Shape and color meaning of Chinese traditional shoulder adornment are extracted, and its artistic features are dug. Besides, it is fused in modern women＇s design. In innovative application of shape, indirect application of hierarchical structure of shoulder adornment shall be mastered, and direct application moire structure shal be grasped. In innovative application of color, the color characteristics of shoulder adornment abd color use rules shall be mastered. The study shows that the shape and color of Chinese traditional shoulder adornment have rich art forms and profound cultural deposits. This paper explores innovative application of shape and color of shoulder adornment in modern women＇s dress in combination of modem aesthetic demand to stress national culture connotation, carry forward Chiense traditional folk costume and open up the way to inherit and innovate shoulder adornment in the women＇s dress design.