包芯色纱性能及其对横编成形提花鞋面织物的影响

Influence of dyed cotton / polyamide / wool core-spun yarn properties on flat knitting shaped shoe-upper knittability

横编成形提花鞋面织物目前一般以涤纶长丝为原料,为提高鞋面材料的吸湿性和舒适性,通过对比8种染色后的棉/锦纶/羊毛(60/30/10)包芯纱的性能,探讨其对提花鞋面织物性能的影响。对色纱的条干、毛羽指标、拉伸性能进行了表征,用8种包芯色纱,采用常用的纬平针、1+1罗纹和1+1双反面组织等织物结构,织成鞋面针织物,研究其顶破性能、起毛起球性能及保暖性能,同时分析了包芯色纱在横编提花鞋面材料成形时的可编织性能。结果表明,黑色纱线的拉伸性能指标最低,断裂强力比淡绿色纱线下降39.9%,其织物的顶破强力也最低,可编织性能最差,尤其是在编织提花组织及翻针形成网眼结构时易出现破洞;淡绿色纱线毛羽指数最低,为34.58根/10 m,织物起毛起球最少。

The polyester filament was applied commonly in fiat knitting shaped shoe-upper. In order to increase the moisture absorption and touch comfortability, the yarn properties of cotton/polyamide/wool yarns with 8 colors were compared to research influence thereof on the knittability on flat knitting machine and the knitted fabrics properties. The component of the core-spun yarn was 60% of cotton, 30% of polyamide and 10% of wool. The dyed yarn evenness, hairiness and tensile properties were characterized. The bursting strength, fuzzing and piling properties, heat retention property and knittability of corresponding knits with single jersey, rib and purl structure were investigated. The results show that the tensile strength of the dark yarn was the lowest, which descended by 39.9% compared with that of light green, and the knittability and the bursting strength of the corresponding fabric were decreased, especially the dark yarns were broken when the double jacquard and the mesh structure were knitted. The hairiness index （34.58/10 m） and the numbers of pills of knits were lowest of light green yarn.