产业化视野下羌族服饰与刺绣色彩运用模式研究

A Study on the Patterns of Color Use on Qiang Costume and Embroidery from the Perspective of Industrialization

在当下市场经济驱动下,催生出所谓的民族色彩经济的概念,但民族色彩语言的设计运用有表面肤浅的倾向。本文从侧重分析羌族色彩的运用模式研究,结合所蕴含的历史文化象征意义,解析该民族的文化密码。以满足羌族产业化发展的需求,对羌族服饰色彩语言传承、发展与创新起到一定的作用。

The color language of the ethnic minorities accumulates and develops during the process of their production practices,and it is influenced by many factors,including the natural environment,primitive beliefs,folklore,and customs as well as by cultural fusion with those ethnic minorities who historically surrounded them. It is a carrier for expressing the emotions of an ethnic group,and is also a cultural element or symbol which reflects the ethnic groups＇ characteristics.An analysis of the ethnic minorities＇ aesthetics regarding color can help us interpret the cultural＂code＂of an ethnic group.At present,ethnic areas are vigorously developing ethnic cultural industries,however,during this development some bad phenomena are emerging. People only see the immediate economic benefits,and pursue a path of quick success from developing ethnic arts. Hence,people＇s understanding of their ethnic color culture is only a one- sided representation,which creates the so-called ＂ethnic color economics ＂. Although many people have analyzed the symbolic meaning of the color from the angle of ethnic cultural research,fewer people analysized the unique rules and principles of the color representation of different ethnic groups from the perspective of practical utilization.After the earthquake of May 12,2008,the economy of the Qiang needed revitalization. However,when we develop the ethnic arts industry,and try to satisfy the market＇s needs,we must consider how to continue the Qiang＇s historical cultural ＂vein ＂.Color is the most meaningful element. Therefore,we need to understand Qing culture mor deeply,and provide inspiration to the designers by doing analysis of the characteristic of the color system of the unique Qiang folk art.Ⅰ. The Characteristics of Color on Qiang Costume and Embroidery1. Decorative Nature The Qiang area of the western Sichuan lies in high mountainous valleys. The special natural conditions and relative backward economic conditions limit the richness of the raw material of the Qiang embroidery. The designs on Qiang costume and embroidery are highly concise; they do not use a realistic depiction of the color language system,have no subtle changes within the layers of the colors,and present sharp contrasts in the organization of color. All the embroidery has a flat,decorative effect.2. Symbolism The symbolism of the colors of the ethnic costume reflects a relationship between the concrete color and its abstract meaning,that is the so called＂symbolic function ＂ and ＂symbolic meaning ＂.Black,white,red and blue colors are the representative colors of the Qiang and have a profound symbolic meaning. Firstly,being influenced by primitive religious beliefs,the Qiang like white and red colors a lot. The Qiang＇s＂like＂of white originated from the worship of white stones and the sheep totem. They regard white as lucky and representing kindness. The preference for red originated from the Qiang＇s worship of fire and the sun. It is said that red has a connection with Emperor Yan,the Qiang＇s ancestor. For costumes used in daily life,the color red is very important. The color black reflects the Qiang＇s strong and resolute character.The color blue originates from the vast sky,and the Qiang people regard blue as a symbol of eternal life.3. Formulization With a clever use of white,black,red andblue,Qiang costume has unique ethnic and regional characteristics,but it also has a relatively fixed formula. The colors of male costume are relatively simple- they are mostly black and blue. The colors of female costume are relatively rich- they are mostly white,red and blue. The embroidery on the costume is concentrated mainly on the shoulders,neckline,cuffs,and the ＂slant ＂ openings,etc. Because the geographical conditions of the Qiang are different,there are differences with the utilization of colors. As a result,a division between individual identity has been formed,the color itself then becomes a typical symbol which reflects ethnic belonging and identity.II. Color Matching in Qiang Costume and Embroidery1. Color Contrast The use of color on Qiang female costume is very bold,and has preserved a concept of color which formed during a long process of living in the natural environment. It is characterized by bright,lively and strong colors which contrast nature. The Qiang female makes a multi- layer artistic space on the basis of their color utilization,and has an aesthetic standard which identifies their own ethnic group.2. Color Reconciliation The colors found on the embroidery of Qiang costume pursue a change and unity in a contrast of colors from the aspect of visual effect. This requires great skill. Qiang costume uses many contrasting colors,especially a contrast of red and green. These two colors,which are difficult to coordinate,have been mixed perfectly by Qiang women.III. Influential Factors on the Qiang Aesthetic of Color The consciousness of color reflects a potential spiritual consciousness and the customs in daily life of the people through a primitive,simple and resounding means of expression. This is a result influenced by geographical and human factors. The Qiang＇s sense of color is connected with their religious culture,and is also fused with the cultural aesthetics found in the northwest area. Hence,in order to understand the Qiang＇s sense of color,we need to uncover,and explore the cultural connota-tions behind color from the perspective of history,culture and development,and,then,to understand the way Qiang＇s artistic expression was formed in the long process of fusion and change.1. a natural aesthetics of respecting nature and believing the theory that man is an integral part of the nature The Qiang have a polytheistic belief system.They still keep relatively primitive religious customs,and believe in animism. They respect,show gratitude towards,and cherish the natural surroundings which nourish them,such as,flowers,grass,trees,and mountains,etc. Due to these religious beliefs,a natural aesthetics of respecting nature and believing in the theory that man is an integral part of the nature has been formed. Although Qiang colors are influenced by the natural surroundings,their expression of color does not passively and mechanically imitate nature. Moreover,they are not restricted by the original colors. Their folk artists use colors boldly and freely according to their own wishes. The colors finally become a symbol for expressing their emotions,and all are served for aesthetic emotion.2. Historical origins and the cultural environment has left a profound mark on natural colors Firstly,the ancient Qiang migrated from the vast grasslands in northwest to the upper reaches of the Minjiang River of northwest Sichuan. This kind of natural environment gave people a sense of sweeping beauty. The Qiang aesthetic,being influenced by the natural environment,their costume shows a kind of broad,strong and magnificent beauty. Concerning the Qiang people＇s worship of white stone,the sacredness of the white stone is not in the stone itself,but in the white color. This is a heritage left over from the religious customs of the ancient Qiang and the nomadic people in the northern part of China. To nomadic people,lighter colors and white are the dominant colors,and this also helps us to understand the historical origin for the Qiang＇s worship of white. It reflects the Qiang＇s inheritance of the customs of their ancestors,and is also related to their cognitive system.3. The Influence of a Dualistic Cognitive System on Qiang Color Matching Qiang religious concept is a kind of dualisticcognitive system. The＂dualistic ＂ concept means that the origin of the world is dualistic. They rely on each other and tolerate each other,which facilitates the existence,change and development of the world. In other words,when the Qiang know and understand the basic methods and characteristics of the objective world,they describe it through a series of general concepts in a way of simple opposi