经编成形鞋面的结构与设计

Structure and Design of Warp Knitted Fully-Fashioned Vamp

通过对经编成形鞋面的大量实样分析和生产设计总结,从功能性、尺寸、时尚性3个角度归纳了经编成形鞋面的设计要求,并从分区设计、尺寸控制、主体区域、辅助设计等方面阐述了经编鞋面的成形工艺设计步骤,其中重点对鞋面的工艺尺寸和排版数目进行了定量分析。指出,经编成形鞋面的功能设计要满足耐磨、顶破和透气性要求,尺寸设计要从工艺尺寸和排版两方面入手,时尚设计要着重于网孔区域的整体形状和位置分布;在幅宽一定的条件下,相对于直立排版,交错排版可排更多的鞋面,有利于提高产量和减少布面浪费。希望通过对成形工艺的研究,为行业内经编成形鞋面的研发机构和生产厂家提供设计和生产的依据。

According to analysis to a large number of warp knitted fully-fashioned vamp examples and summary of their production and design, this paper summarizes the design requirements from three aspects including function, size and fashion, presents the design procedure of knitting technology in terms of divisional design, dimension control, main part and aided design, and quantitatively analyzes the size and number of typesetting of fully-fashioned vamp. It points out that the functional design of warp knitted fully-fashioned vamp should meet the demands of wear-resisting, bursting and air permeability. The size design should start with technological size and layout, and fashion design focuses on the total sharp and distribution of mesh area. The number of staggered layout is more than the upright layout under the condition of fixed which can reduce the waste of cloth and improve the production efficiency. The results can provide the design and production criteria for research institutions and manufactures.