汉族民间围腰荷包的造型艺术研究

The Study on Composing Arts of Han Folk Waist Pocket

围腰荷包是汉族民间服饰品体系中的重要组成部分,通过对民间围腰荷包实物的调研分析,将其分为碗型的掳兜,长带型的满腰转,单片式的抱肚三种基本造型。作为一种围在腰际的大型荷包,其即可保暖又可盛物,还有一定装饰与传情达意的作用。装饰技法上以刺绣、拼色及镶嵌滚等各种缘饰艺术最为突出,其刺绣纹样的符号寓意有四大主题:吉祥如意、传情递爱、商贾求财及君子情怀,体现了传统文化中趋吉避害、传情达意及自我实现的情感追求。通过对南北腰包的对比分析,可以看出南北不同自然环境与社会环境影响下的服饰文化与审美心理。

The waist pocket is an important part of Hart folk costume and accessory system, which contains three basic types ： the bowl-shaped waist pocket, long belt-shaped waist pocket and the light belly-holding waist pocket. As a kind of large pockets hung around the waist, they can keep warm, hold things, decorate the owner and express sentiments. The main decorative techniques of these pockets include embroidery, color matching and other prominent traditional fringe art. The symbolic meaning of embroidery patterns focus on four themes： auspicious, loving, monetary and noble sentiments, which not only reflects the traditional culture of ＂pursuing good fortune and avoiding disaster＂, but also a common way of expressing emotions and showing self-realization. By the comparison of pockets between the northern and the southern parts, the different costume culture and aesthetic psychology under special natural and social environment can be perceived.