抽褶造型与面料性能的关系及评价模型建立

Relationship between Pleating Effect and Fabric Performance and Establishment of the Evaluation Model

采用14种面料为试验面料,测试了面料主要物理性能,对不同性能的面料抽褶设计,再利用主客观评价量化服装抽褶造型,定性分析面料性能对抽褶造型的影响,并得出抽褶造型评价模型。试验结果表明:织物的面密度、经纬密度、厚度和剪切性能对抽褶波峰数、平均波深、波间距具有负影响;悬垂性能对抽褶造型下摆的宽窄和抽褶后侧面形成的造型弧度大小具有负影响;面料抽褶造型等级与抽褶波峰数和波弧角度正相关。

This paper uses fourteen kinds of fabric as test samples and tests the main physical properties of fabrics,using the fabrics with different performance to make pleats,analyzing qualitatively the fabric performance influence on pleating effect then obtaining evaluation model.The experimental result shows the fabric weight,density,thickness and shear performance have negative impact on the wave number,the average depth of wave and the distance;drape performance have negative impact on hem width of pleat and radian size of the side of pleat;fabric pleating effect is associated with wave crest and wave radian size positively.