毛精纺怀旧风格织物的开发思路与工艺探讨

Development ideas and production processes for retro style worsted wool fabrics

通过运用组织创新、工艺组合创新、弹性纱线加水洗工艺的思路,实现了开发竹节、树皮绉、微绒面、水洗褪色、弹性纱线起泡等毛精纺怀旧风格织物的目的。并对织造工艺参数进行研究,分析原料、组织、纱线颜色搭配、纱线捻度、上机幅宽、织物紧度,染整工艺洗呢、蒸呢、烘呢、缩呢,热定形温度、车速、时间,水洗工艺温度、时间、浴比等工艺设计参数。研究结果表明,设计合理的工艺参数,能对织物成品风格起到关键的作用。

The paper studies development ideas and production processes for retro style worsted wool fabrics. Probe ideas on construction innovations, production processes innovations and water washed finishing processes for elastic yarns. Developed different retro style fabrics such as slub yarn fabrics, bark- like crepes,small millingfinishment,color fading washed finishment, elastic yarn with bubbling etc. The paper studies production parameter data, and analyses raw materials, constructions, the yarn color combination,the yarn twist, the greigewidth, the fabric yarn density and other aspects in finishing process like the water washing, steaming, drying and shrinking for greiges, the heat shaping temperature, the machine speed and time setting, the temperature, time and bath ratio of washing processes. The results show proper production parameters play a key role for the fabric final style.