五朝畸店广和居

A Study of Guang He Ju

广和居的兴衰已成为历史陈迹。这个五朝畸店被哄抬出盛名又与其地偏肆小之状极不相称,其中行膳之人物,馔品之掌故,及牵涉的晚清政局和纷纭世事,却留给后世人思索。对广和居的发迹原因作些探讨,能增进对官府食俎文化遗产流向民间的认知和见识,对研究清朝京都餐饮史,也具有一定的价值。

The rise and fall of Guang He Ju has long been a part of history. As a restaurant which abnormally lived through reigns of five emperors of Qing Dynasty, Guang He Ju＇ s isolated spot and small scale did not match its boosted fame. But it leaves to the world a great deal to reflect on： figures frequented there, anec- dotes of its dishes and food, political situation of Late Qing and the then current affairs. The paper studies rea- sons behind the rise of Guang He Ju in the hope to promote the recognition and knowledge of how official die- tetic culture spreads into the folk. The study is also of value in the study of Beijing dietetic culture in Qing Dy- nasty.