北宋初汉族男性服饰特征探微

Explorations on Features of Men's Costumes of Han Nationality in Early Northern Song Dynasty

通过对晚唐至北宋初品级朝官、在野隐士及平民等汉族男性所着服饰及其特征进行研究,此时男性服饰所呈现出几种不同之"变"的形态在动乱结束后长期并存,并在服饰历史发展中均发挥着不同效应的影响作用,以此力求反映和折射出当时不同阶层的审美趋向、精神文化追求及社会文化的变迁,即无论是品级朝官与在野隐士所着渐儒趋雅风格的服饰,还是平民所着便捷实用的服饰,均能不同程度地体现出当时世人的一种复古心态,反映出北宋初期男性服饰风格发生变革的轨迹。

This paper studies costumes of men of the Hart nationality such as officials in early grades, hermits not in office and civilians from late Tang dynasty to early Northern Song dynasty and their features. Several different forms presented by men＇s costumes in this period co-existed for a long time after the end of unrest and had different effects in the historical development of costumes. This paper attempts to reflect aesthetic trend and spiritual and cultural pursuits of different classes at that time and the transition of social culture. Both costumes of officials and hermits not in office with an elegant style and those of civilians with convenience and practicability can reflect the psychology of common people to different degrees and the track of reform of men＇s costume style in early Northern Song dynasty.