白裤瑶服饰技艺及文化内涵解读

On Craftsmanship of Baikuyao Clothing and Its Cultural Connotations

针对白裤瑶族服饰的制作工艺及其染织图案的内在意味,采用田野考察、文献研究与图像学方法,从工艺学、社会学及艺术图像学角度,对白裤瑶族服饰技艺与文化进行全面分析。研究表明:白裤瑶服饰技艺极富地方特色,制作程序达二十多道,尤其是其防染技术与众不同;而其染织出来的图案不仅形象优美,而且意味深长,它既是祖先崇拜的产物,也是远古瑶人生殖崇拜的表征。白裤瑶族服饰图案记载着白裤人民斗争与迁徙的历史,展现了一个少数民族特有的民族风情,具有一种原始野性的美。

For the craftsmanship of Baikuyao clothing and inner meaning of its fabric pattern, this paper comprehensively analyzes the craftsmanship and culture of Baikuyao clothing from the perspective of technology,sociology and artistic image with the method of field investigation, document research and leonology, l ne researcn shows that the craftsmanship of Baikuyao clothing has local characteristics; there are over 20 fabrication procedures. In particular, its dye-resistant technology is distinctive. Fabric patterns have both beautiful image and profound meaning. It is both a product of ancestor worship and characterization of reproduction worship of ancient Yao people. Patterns of Baikuyao costumes record the history of struggle and migration of Baiku people and manifest the unique national customs of a minority. It has an original wild beauty.