摘要
为解决常规曲线织物需要特殊钢筘和打纬机构的难题,从不同组织、色块的配合、色纱的排列等方面研究了纬向曲线织物的曲线效应形成的机制,并通过试织小样,运用正交试验对纬向曲线织物的基本参数与工艺因素的关系进行了系统的分析和优化设计。试验证明组织和纬密对弯曲率具有重要影响。试验确定优化工艺为A1B1C3,即组织为平纹,筘号为157.5筘/10 cm、纬密为295根/10 cm时,可获得最大的弯曲率,其曲线效果最好,实现了新颖独特的自然纬向曲线效果,可用于各类棉型、丝型、毛型织物设计。
In order to solve the problem that weaving normal curve fabric needs special mechanical equipment, the curve effect forming mechanism of weft-curve fabric was studied from the aspects of different weaves, color area matching and the arrangement of color yarn. The relationship of fundamental parameters and process factors was analyzed and optimally designed by orthogonal test and weaving of fabrics. It has been proved that weave and weft density have great influence on the curving rate. The optimum process is A1B1C3 , i.e. under conditions of plain weave, reed number of 157.5/10 cm and weft density of 295/10 cm, the maximum curving rate is obtained, and the curve effect is optimized, thereby realizing unique natural weft effect. The result can be used in the design of various cotton, silk and wool fabrics.
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2015年第10期33-37,共5页
Journal of Textile Research
关键词
缩率
纬向曲线织物
正交试验
曲线效应
弯曲率
shrinkage
weft-curve fabric
orthogonal test
curve effect
curving rate
