羊毛针织物起球行为及平台区形态

Behavior of pilling of wool knitted fabric and its platform region morphology

为获得羊毛针织物起球的总体行为特征,采用改型马丁代尔耐磨仪实测了纯毛单面纬平针织物上的毛球数和脱落毛球数,并以二者的简单加和获得了织物实际起球数。实验结果表明:当摩擦次数大于等于13 000时,因新生毛球的近似线性增多和脱落毛球的基本等速减少,织物上毛球数曲线开始趋于稳定而呈平台区;脱落毛球数曲线为两端被拉平的S形光滑曲线;实际起球数单调增加,但有明显的饱和点。平台区中织物上毛球数和毛球形态基本不变,毛球体积先下降后有所增加,毛球质量和密度单调增加。平台区是最为稳定的测评区。

To obtain the overall behavior of pilling of all-wool knitted fabric, a modified Martindale abrasion tester was adopted to measure the number of pills on the surface of the fabric and worn-off pills, which are added to obtain the total number of pills. The experimental results showed that with the abrasion rub ≥ 13 000, the number of pills on the surface was not obviously changed and developed steadily due to the balance between the approximately linear increase of new pills and the decrease of worn-off pills. The worn-off pills curve was likely to be a smooth S-shaped curve, which is leveled at both ends. The total number of pills monotonically increased but with an obvious saturation point. In the platform region, the number of pills on the surface was steady and the morphology of pills was substantially unchanged. However, the volume of pills firstly decreased and then increased. The weight and the density of pills monotonously increased. The platform region was the stablest region for thepilling test.