乳房位置对上衣结构的影响

Influence of breast location on structure of female upper garment

为提高女上装胸部设计的合体性,通过对180名女大学生进行人体测量,获得乳房有关数据,用模糊C均值算法进行聚类,得到胸部最高点(即BP点)的纵向及横向相对位置。采用Opti Tex技术的3-D模块进行模型构建及立裁实验,获得不同上衣原型样板并进行叠加,分析重要工艺点的位移变化。结果显示:BP点纵向位置指标比值主要为1.00、1.12和1.24,省尖下移,肩省平均横向增加0.6 cm,而腰省平均横向减小0.6 cm;BP点横向位置指标比值主要为0.9、1.0、1.1,省尖左右移动,省的大小基本不变。研究结果对特殊体型样板结构设计与修正具有指导意义。

In order to make the chest design of upper outer garment fitter,180 female college students were selected to be measured for acquiring the relative data of the chest,and then fuzzy C-means clustering method was used to obtain the location of the highest point of chest（ BP point） in the upper longitudinal relative position and lateral position. The text uses the 3-D module of the Opti Tex technology to build the models and make the three-dimensional cutting experiment to acquir different sample plates,stacks the sample plates and analyzes the displacement change of important technical points. The result shows that the BP longitudinal position indicator ratio mainly points to 1. 00,1. 12 and 1. 24. When the dart moves down,the shoulder dart increases the amount of the average transverse by 0. 6 cm,and the waist dart decreases the amount of the average transverse by 0. 6 cm as well. The BP lateral position indicator ratio mainly points to 0. 9,1. 0,1. 1,the shoulder dart and the waist dart move around,but the size of darts basically remain unchanged. This change rule will have guiding significance for the garment pattern design and correction.