青年女性臀凸曲线及裤装后片结构分析

Analysis on young female's hip convex curve and trousers' back part structure

为提高下装设计的合体性,通过三维人体扫描仪对200名在校女大学生进行测量,获得有关臀部数据,利用所测数据得出后臀部特征描述性衍生变量;运用SPSS数据分析软件对不同的臀部特征进行聚类,获得4类不同臀沟曲线形态;利用Opti Tex三维服装CAD技术得到不同臀型的虚拟模特,经过立体裁剪得到裤装后片原型样板,通过样板之间叠加、对比,测量样板之间的变化,分析不同臀沟曲线对样板省量的增加、后裆曲线的弯曲度以及重要工艺点位移变化的影响,总结平面结构变化规律,对裤装的合体性设计及特殊体型的样板结构修正具有重要指导意义。

In order to make the bottom desi fitter,200 female from colleges were selected to measure hip data based on 3-D body measurement. Using the measured dates, variables descriptive of hip characteristics were counted out. SPSS data analysis software was used for clustering different hip shape.Opti Tex 3-D CAD was used to establish different models with different hip convexes,and then 3-D cutting was performed to obtain different body trousers patterns. Through measuring these patterns,the effect of different hip convees on the pattern,such as the change of boilerplate＇s province,curve bending of crotch and the important technological points was analyzed. At last, the rules of structure change were summarized,which has important guiding significance to the pattern design for shape.