中国传统服饰染色技艺之黄色系复原研究

Study on Dyeing Technique of Traditional Chinese Costumes of Yellow Series Recovery

对《天工开物》《本草纲目》《乾隆十九年分销算染作》三部著作记载的相关染色技艺、染材、染液、色名、色彩等进行研究整理,从中选择黄色系中14种色彩53种染色方案进行复原实验,确认了染色工艺为直接染色法、媒染法、还原法、套染法,及其L*、a*、b*值的大致范围。结果显示,其中12种色彩显色清晰,色相明确,与色名的描述基本一致。藤黄色比定义描述偏浅;麦黄色比定义描述偏黄;杏黄色为黄杏色彩,并非杏仁色彩。复原后共8种色彩试样,其耐洗色牢度和摩擦色牢度均达到3级以上的标准,可满足服装服用色牢度要求。

This paper studies and organizes relevant dyeing technique, dyeing material, dyeing liquor, color name and color recorded in Exploitation of Works of Nature, Compendium of Materia Medica and Distribution Calculation for Dyeing in Qianlong 19, selects 14 colors and 53 dyeing programs in yellow series for recovery experiment and confirms dyeing techniques, namely direct dyeing method, mordanting method, recovery method and cover dyeing method, and the approximate scope of L＊ , a ＊ and b ＊ values. The result shows that 12 colors have clear coloration and specific hue and are basically consistent with descriptions of color name ; gamboge is lighter than that described in the definition; corn-ripe yellow is yellower than that described in the definition; apricot is the color of apricot rather than almond. There are 8 color samples after recovery and their color fastness to washing and rubbing fastness are above grade 3. They can meet the requirement of color fastness of clothes.