黔东南剑河苗族锡绣服饰艺术特征分析

Analysis on Artistic Characteristics of Tin Embroidery Costume of Jianhe Miao Nationality in Southeast Guizhou

剑河苗族锡绣服饰艺术特征鲜明,其以锡代线在挑花基础上对面料进行二次加工的刺绣方法,在苗族刺绣技艺中堪称一绝。现以田野调查为基础结合历史文献资料,从服饰艺术的取材、款式、结构、装饰工艺等方面,对黔东南剑河苗族锡绣的服饰艺术特征进行探讨分析,旨在通过其独特的传统服饰技艺的艺术表现来探寻服饰艺术与民族文化之间的相关性。剑河苗族锡绣服饰就地取材的面料、契合功能的款式与结构设计,以及表达信仰的装饰工艺,体现出的是与物性、与人、与时、与礼相宜、因地制宜、文质相宜的造物理念。

Tin embroidery costume of Jianhe Miao nationality has distinct artistic features. Its embroidery method of conducting secondary processing of fabrics on the basis of cross-stitch with Tin rather than thread is a special skill in embroidery art of Miao nationality. This paper discusses and analyzes artistic features of Tin embroidery costume of Jianghe Miao nationality in southeast Guizhou in terms of material, style, structure and decorating technique of costume art based on field investigation in combination with historical document literature and aims at exploring the correlation between costume art and national culture through its unique artistic expression of traditional costume art. Fabrics with local materials, style and structural design matching with functions and decorating technique expressing belief of Tin embroidery costumes of Jianhe Miao nationality manifest the creation concept of fitting with ties of matter, human, time and manners, adaptation to local conditions and match of form and content.