易装、性别与权力--略论法国大革命时期的“亚马逊女战士”服饰

Cross-Dressing,Gender and Power:On the Costume of “Amazon Female Fighters” in the French Revolution

服饰是社会性别秩序的重要表征,它在性别间制造出区隔,由此也划分出两性各自的价值与职责。法国大革命时期激进的革命女性身穿男装、手持刀枪,走上街头,争取佩戴武器、参与战事等权利,这是法国女性史上女性第一次正式提出平等的诉求。她们的行为遭致男性革命者的激烈反对和压制。本文从剖析大革命时期"亚马逊女战士"服饰入手,揭示当时女性为争取平等权利所遭遇的困境:革命者认为允许女性身着男装会导致女性寻求更多的权力空间,这无疑有悖于他们心目中自然合理的社会秩序对两性角色所做的安排。男性竭力维护传统性别秩序的权威性,这是他们压制女性易装诉求的根源。服饰现象中显现的张力实则是两性在权力话语上的对峙。

When the French Revolution swept across France,women from all ranks were actively involved in the revolutionary torrent in various ways.One of the most striking actions was that radical revolutionary women,dressed like men,armed with knives and guns,took to the streets to fight for their rights,such as to wear weapons and participate in the war.How did men treat these women who demanded equal rights? From the analysis of the Amazon costumes those female fighters wore during the period,this article reveals the plight of the women who straggled for equal rights.It explores the gender ideology of the Revolution by looking at the role of costume change in the revolutionary culture.The author maintains that those women were criticized and looked down upon by men at the time because the latter hoped to maintain traditional social and gender order.The men suppressed women's demand for cross-dressing because costume change reflected and extended the gender tension in social and cultural discourse.