3种植物活性成分刺激性与人体适应性评价研究

Evaluation of Irritation and Adaptability of Three Kinds of Active Ingredient

为了向活性成分的开发及利用提供技术支持,探讨了3种化妆品中活性成分红景天提取物、积雪草提取物以及苦参提取物的眼刺激性、皮肤刺激性以及人体适应性。具体采用皮肤刺激性体外3D模型试验、鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜眼刺激性/腐蚀性试验(HET-CAM)以及人体封闭式斑贴试验对3种活性成分的皮肤刺激性、局部眼刺激性以及人体适应性进行评价。结果发现:在眼刺激性试验中,苦参提取物、积雪草提取物具有强刺激性/腐蚀性,红景天提取物无/轻刺激性。三种提取物均无皮肤刺激性,红景天提取物在1%(质量分数,下同)和5%,以及苦参提取物在1%的应用浓度条件下均未引起皮肤的不良反应,1%和5%的积雪草提取物以及5%苦参提取物均有皮肤不良反应发生。说明这3种活性成分中只有红景天提取物的刺激性较低,在化妆品中应用具有安全性。苦参提取物及积雪草提取物在应用中需要进行进一步考察。

The eye irritation, skin irritation and adaptability of three active ingredients from Rhodiola rosea, Centella asiatica L. and Sophora flavescens were investigated by Episkin TM test, HET-CAM eye irritation test and human patch test. The results showed that the eye irritation of extract from CenteUa asiatica L. and Sophora flavescens were severe, that of from Rhodiola rosea was non or slight. They all had no skin irritation. Extracts of Rhodiola rosea at 1% mass fraction, the same below and 5% concentration and Sophora flavescens at 1 % concentration had no skin adverse reaction. But that of Centella asiatica L. at 1 % and 5% concentration and Sophora flavescens at 5% concentration had adverse reactions. That meant the extract of Rhodiola rosea had slight irritation, and would be safety in the cosmetics application. The application of extracts from Centetla asiatica L. and Sophora flavescens in cosmetics need further investigation.