冰岛衣染料对羊毛的染色工艺研究

Research on the dyeing of wool fabric with cetraria islandica acharius dye

研究冰岛衣色素提取液对西藏羊毛纤维的染色工艺。探讨染色温度、染色时间、染料用量、p H值、媒染剂种类和用量等因素对羊毛纤维K/S值的影响,比较预媒法、同媒法和后媒法对染色纤维颜色特征值的影响,确定最佳染色工艺。研究结果表明:冰岛衣提取液染色的最佳工艺为:染色温度80℃,p H值2,媒染剂用量3%(owf),染色时间70 min,染料用量300 m L/L。直接染色后的纤维色牢度较好,采用预媒法染色,纤维的K/S值、日晒牢度、摩擦牢度均有所提高。

A study on the dyeing performance of Tibet＇s wool fibers with the extraction of cetraria islandica acharius was worked. The effects of the dosage, pH value, temperature, dyeing time and the kind of mordant on K/S value of dyed wool fibers were analyzed. Comparing the pre-mordant process, metachrome process and afterchrome process on the color of the dyed fiber, it optimized the dyeing process. The color fastness of cetraria islandica acharius dye on wool was compared between direct and pre-mordant dyeing methods. The results showed that the optimal process was pH value 2, dyeing at 80 ℃ for 70mins, mordant 3% （owf） , and dyed fibers possess good color fastness. Pre-mordant dyeing technique made improvement of K/S value, light and rubbing fastness.