商品经济浪潮下明末“鬏髻”的嬗变

“Jiuji”Evolution in Late Ming under Commodity Economy Tide

"鬏髻"是明代已婚妇女的必戴头饰,亦是搭配正装的首服。明初,"鬏髻"具有规范社会身份的"礼"制意义。至明朝中后期,"心学"思想的盛行,社会生活的世俗化以及审美时尚的流行,促使"鬏髻"由最初的"礼"制象征演变为炫富的工具,后来又发展为女性纯粹的装饰审美饰品,商品性特征显著及审美趣味多样化,"鬏髻"嬗变的背后映射了晚明社会文化生活方方面面的变迁。

Married women must wear headgear ＂Jiuji＂ in Ming Dynasty. It is also the head ornament used to match the clothing. In the early Ming Dynasty, ＂Jiuji＂ owned ＂rite＂ significance of standardizing social identity. Till the middle and late Ming Dynasty, prevalence of psychological ideology, secularization of social life and popularity of aesthetic fashion make ＂Jiuji＂ evolve to a tool to show richness from original ＂rite＂ symbol. Later, it developed to a pure decoration accessory. Its commodity feature is significant and aesthetic interest is diversified. ＂Jiuji＂ evolution maps the change of various aspects in social culture and life.