酸食的地域性研究——以贵州黔东南西江苗寨为例

A Study on Regionalism of Sour Food ——Taking Xijiang Miao Village of Qiandongnan, Guizhou as an Example

文章从地域关系来认知和阐述酸食,描述西江各种酸食的来源和制作方法及程序,呈现酸食在西江苗人生活中的图景,同时从历史角度追溯苗人在缺盐无盐的境况下选择"以酸代盐"。苗人食酸一方面保证了"我族"的生存,另一方面是对中央王权控制手段的一种回应。此外,酸食在历史上一度与苗人被分为"生苗"与"熟苗"相关,在烹饪三角之模型上,其实占据较重要的位置。

This article cognizes and expounds sour food from regional relation. It describes sources, making ways and procedures of various sour foods in Xijiang, presenting the picture of sour food in Xijiang people＇s life. And at the same time, it traces back to the Xijiang people＇s life of replacing salt by sour under the condition of being lacking in salt from the historic perspective. Eating sour foods, on one hand, ensures the survival of ＂the Miaos itself＂, and on the other hand, is a response to the control measure of the central crown power. In addition, sour foods which were divided into ＂raw Miao food＂ and ＂cooked Miao food＂ at one time in history, occupy an important position in the cooking triangular model actually.