旗袍外廓型变化与流行内衣的关系研究——以英国V&A博物馆的几件旗袍藏品为例

Study on Relevance between Cheongsam Silhouette Change and Fashionable Underwear: Case Study of Several Cheongsam Collections Preserved at V&A Museum of UK

以世界著名的艺术设计博物馆——英国维多利亚及阿尔伯特博物馆(V&A)所藏中国旗袍实物为例,研究从20世纪20年代至60年代的近半个世纪以来,女性旗袍的外廓形及其他特点变迁,并结合其间中国女性内衣所经历的三个典型阶段(束胸阶段、天乳阶段和夸张阶段)及所穿内衣的明显变革,探讨旗袍与内衣的相互关系,尤其是其外轮廓造型与流行内衣的密切关系。即20世纪20年代女性的束胸习俗造就了旗袍平直宽大的外部造型;20世纪30年代"天乳运动"后的健康内衣,勾画出了旗袍流畅自然的外轮廓线;而20世纪50年代以后的旗袍,则在西式流行内衣的影响之下呈现出非自然的夸张外轮廓。研究进一步揭示中国女性的思想观念、身体意识及内衣穿着,对旗袍流行款式的影响。

By taking Chinese cheongsam collected in world famous art design museum： Victoria and Albert Museum（ V＆A） for example,this paper studies changes in silhouette and other features of female cheongsam from 1920 s to1960s and combines three typical stages of Chinese women ’s underwear（ breast binding stage,anti-breast-binding stage and exaggeration stage） and obvious changes in the underwear to discuss the relevance between cheongsam and underwear（ especially the close relation between outer contour and fashionable underwear）. In other words,women’s breast binding custom in 1920 s made flat,straight and loose external shape of cheongsam. After ＂anti-breast-binding campaign＂in 1930 s,healthy underwear promoted natural outer contour line of cheongsam. After 1950 s,cheongsam presented non-natural exaggerated outer contour under the influence of western-style fashionable underwear,the research further reveals the effects of Chinese women’s ideology, body awareness and underwear wearing on fashionable style of cheongsam.