汉族民间香荷包之造型工艺与功能解析

Analysis of Forms,Process and Functions of Chinese Folk Sachet

通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆与台州刺绣博物馆实物藏品的研究,发现香荷包主要有抽绳香袋和封口香包两类,前者包括腰圆形、鸡心形和葫芦形,后者或繁或简、变化多端。以腰圆形抽绳荷包的制作工艺为例,对传统香荷包的基本制作要点进行分析。传统香荷包不仅能够满足视觉审美又可在嗅觉上沁心怡神,既可用于服饰点缀也可用于居家装饰。它是古代女子传递情愫,端午时节辟邪驱灾,中医外治的重要手段。随着现代生活方式的变化,各类抽绳香袋已经在民俗生活中消失,但地方香包还有所保留。研究传统香包的造型、工艺与功能文化对传承中华服饰审美不可或缺,也可为当代服饰配件设计提供灵感。

Through the research of collections from Han Folk Costume Museum of Jiangnan University and Taizhou Embroidery Museum,it is found that Chinese traditional sachets are mainly classified into two categories： drawstring sachet and sealing sachet. The former includes round shape,heart-shape and cucurbit shape,while the latter can be simple or complicated,and always changeable. By taking the making process of the round sachet for example,this paper analyzes key making points of traditional sachet. Traditional sachet can not just meet visual aesthetic and make people pleasant in terms of smell,but also be used for clothing decoration and home decoration. Besides,it was an important means for the female in ancient times to express sincere feeling and to expel disaster and evil spirits during Dragon Boat Festival. Besides,it was also a good means for external therapy of Chinese medicine. As modern life style changes,all kinds of drawstring sachet have disappeared in folk life,but some parochial sachet arts are still reserved. Studying the forms,handcraft and culture of traditional sachet is indispensable for inheriting Chinese clothing aesthetics,and also provides certain inspiration for design of contemporary fashion accessories.