针织毛衫常用起底组织及工艺设计

The Technology Design of Starting Stitches for Knitted Sweater

介绍羊毛衫常用的起底组织及上机工艺,主要有罗纹起底、单边起底、波浪式起底与荷叶边起底。罗纹起底边口具有较大的弹性和延伸性,不易脱散,织物外观有纵向凹凸的坑条效应;单边起底边口弹性小,易脱散,但织物外观有独特的卷边效果;波浪式起底主要是通过不织、集圈或移针这3种方法来实现的,其边口呈曲线状,既新颖又时尚;荷叶边起底边口外观立体生动活泼。不同的起底组织体现毛衫不同的设计风格,应根据客户需求合理选择。

The paper introduces the knitting technology of the most common starting stitches of knitted sweater, such as rib stitch, plain stitch, curved stitch and purl stitch and so on. The rib starting stitch with straight cords effect possesses high elasticity and extensibility properties, and is not easy to ladder; the jersey starting stitch with unique edge-cuff effect has little stretch properties, and is easy to ladder; the curved starting stitch is formed by missing, tucking or transferring loops, which is novel and fashionable; the purl starting stitch presents three-dimensional and dynamic effect. The designers should choose different starting stitches according to the demands of customers and the style of sweater.