羊绒与羊毛的天然染料染色性能比较

Comparison of dyeing properties of cashmere and wool with natural dyes

采用4种天然染料对羊绒、羊毛进行染色,通过实验比较羊绒、羊毛染色性能的差异。选择染色温度、染液pH值、媒染剂用量和媒染时间4个因素进行正交试验。实验结果表明,羊绒的上染百分率和表观深度(K/S值)普遍高于羊毛,羊绒的天然染料染色性能优于羊毛;对上染百分率、得色率影响最大的因素是染液pH值,染液p H值稍微降低,上染百分率或得色率可明显提高;天然染料可以在低温条件下对羊绒进行染色。几种染料相比较,紫胶红可以在染色阶段达到97%以上的上染百分率(对羊绒);叶绿素铜钠盐不仅染色阶段上染百分率达95%以上、而且媒染阶段上染百分率达96%以上(对羊绒),最终达到非常高的上染百分率;栀子蓝是典型的媒染染料,染色阶段上染百分率较低,但在媒染阶段可以使上染百分率大大提高。

In this paper,4 kinds of natural dyes were used for dyeing cashmere and wool,and the dyeing properties of cashmere and wool were compared by experiment results. The 4 factors of dyeing temperature,p H value, dose of mordant and mordant dyeing time were arranged for orthogonal experiment. The experimental results showed that the uptake rate and color strength（ K/S values） values of cashmere was generally higher than that of wool. Hence,the dyeing performances of cashmere by natural dyes were better than that of wool. The most influential factor on uptake rate and color strength（ K/S values） was the p H value. The uptake rate and color strength（ K/S values） could be significantly improved with the p H value slightly decreasing. Cashmere could be dyed at low temperature by natural dyes. Among the four natural dyes,the uptake rate of lac red could reach up to 97%（ on cashmere）during dyeing process. For sodium copper chlorophyll,the uptake rate could be up to more than 95%,not only in dyeing process,but also in mordant dyeing process（ on cashmere）,and eventually the uptake rate was very high. Gardenia blue belongs to a mordant dye,and the uptake rate of mordant dyeing was greatly improved compared with that of dyeing process.