基于穿着压力舒适性的针织女上装紧身原型研究

Research on women bodice prototype of knitwear based on the wear-pressure comfort

根据不同弹性度的针织面料设计无省紧身型针织女装原型纸样,运用定负荷拉伸法对10种不同弹性的针织面料进行弹性拉伸率测试。在穿着压力舒适性的基础上,将不同针织面料在同一标准人台上进行立裁实验,得到不同弹性度面料的紧身型针织女装样板各细部的数据。比较各细部数据,分析运用弹性针织面料制作紧身原型纸样的规律和方法,绘制无省紧身针织女装原型纸样,再利用该纸样制作紧身连衣裙实物,经检验纸样具有良好的收身效果与舒适性。

Based on the data of the fabric test and designed for the tight prototype without province,ten kinds of knitting fabric were tested on elasticity first by the constant load tensile method. On the basis of the wear-pressure comfort the draping of elastic knitted fabrics were conducted on the mannequin,thus obtain the different data of tight knitting prototype pattern. Comparing the cutting data,analyzing the law and the method of how to use the elastic knitted fabric made the tight prototype pattern,and the tight knitted garment prototype pattern without province was set up. Finally,a tight dress was made by this prototype pattern. It examined the pattern had a good effect of fit the body and comfort.