从官民之差到城乡之别—由古代史迈向近代史的服装精神属性的根本转折

From the differences between officials and civilians to the differences between urban and rural—the fundamental transition of the spiritual attribute in clothing from ancient history to modern history

笔者以《礼记》等儒家典籍、历代《舆服志》等古代文献与上海档案馆、中国第二历史档案馆馆藏档案为史料,对古代服装史上官民之差与近代服装史上城乡之差的现象进行了研究,认为:在中国古代史上,为了达到"经国家、定社稷、序人民"的目的,形成了官民之间的对立与服饰差,也形成了官员内部的等级序列与服饰差,同时不可避免地伴随着僭越与反僭越、禁忌与反禁忌的现象。而在中国古代服装史迈进近代服装史的转折过程中,固有的服制被淘汰,时尚、形式美等服装自身的因素被复原,上升为取舍与衡量服装优劣的决定因素。而更深层面的社会形态的变化是:古代史上十分显著的政治序列标识转化为近代史上相对隐含的经济序列标识,古代史上文化传承的独立的"一元"也转化为近代史上中西合璧的"二元",且由于这一切首先发端于城市、重点发生于城市而形成了显著的城乡之别。

The research focuses on the differences between officials and civilians in ancient Chinese history and the differences between urban and rural in modern Chinese history. And the research is based on the the classic book of Confucianism like the Book of Rites, the Annal of Yu Fu of the past dynasties in China and other ancient literatures including the historical datum from Shanghai Archives and the Second Historical Archives of China. Indication： In order to achieve the aim of ＂govern, pacify, and order of the nation＂ in ancient Chinese history, an opposition was formed between officials and civilians and the clothing of them were really different. And there were hierarchy-differences and clothing-differences within the officials inside the court as well. Meanwhile, arrogation and anti-arrogation, taboo and anti-taboo were took place inevitably. However, inherent clothing system was abandoned in the transition process of the clothing from ancient Chinese history to modern Chinese history, and fashion, form beauty of the clothing itself were regarded as decisive factors to choose and evaluate the worth of the clothing. In addition, what the deeper changes of the social formation is： the remarkable identification of political sequence in ancient history turned into relatively invisible economic sequence in modern history; the independent ＂one-core＂ cultural inheritance in ancient history tured into ＂two-cores＂ which contains both Chinese and Western elements. And all of these made great differences between urban and rural since all of these happened in urban firstly and intensivly.