毛型PBT纤维及其精纺面料的开发

Wool type PBT fiber and the development of its worsted fabric

利用毛型PBT短纤的性能,结合精纺双弹织物的设计思想,开发了毛型PBT双弹精纺面料。通过对PBT纤维性能的阐述,确定毛型PBT在精纺领域的应用优势;通过其与羊毛的合理比例搭配,以及合理纱线密度的设计,再结合纺纱、织造、后整理等工序的关键技术探讨,成功开发了一款毛/涤50/50双弹面料,产品手感柔软、呢面清爽,并且各项物理指标满足国家标准,尤其经、纬向弹性分别达到了10.5%与11.5%。文章重点探讨了产品关键工序的工艺技术参数及操作要求,对毛型PBT弹性面料生产具有一定的指导意义。

In this paper, we develop a wool type PBT double stretch worsted fabric, using the property of wool type PBT and the design of double stretch worsted fabric. Discussing the properties of PBT fiber, it is sure that wool type PBT fiber in the field of worsted fabirc has advantages . Through the reasonable proportion of PBT and wool, the appropriate designing of the yarn density, coupled with the discussion of key technology of spinning, weaving and finishing process, we successfully develop wool/ polyester（50/50） and double stretch fabric. The fabric is soft and has flat surface. The physical indicators all meet the national standards. Especially, the stretch of warp and weft reaches 10.5% and 11.5% respectively. In this paper, the operation demands and the process technical parameters of the key working procedure are especially researched,which has a certain guiding significance to the produce of the wool type PBT stretch fabric.