摘要
为改善07式作训服肩背压迫感和束缚感较大的问题,通过背部加入对称褶裥、腋下嵌入椭圆形袖裆、装袖改为插肩袖及拼入针织衣片的变化设计正交试验,制作5款作训服.测试不同动作下作训服肩背部主客观压力,利用AHP方法将主客观数据综合分析,探讨作训服肩背部结构设计对压力的影响及衣内空间与压力舒适性的关系.结果表明:袖裆、袖型、后背褶裥3种结构设计均能在一定程度上改善肩背压迫感和束缚感,减小肩背服装压;袖型设计使肩背压力波动最大;针织袖档、针织后背褶裥及装袖结构的作训服肩背压力舒适性最佳.
To improve the uncomfortable feeling of the combat uniform due to high pressure in the shoulder and back,orthogonal test method was used and five samples were designed.Methods like two symmetrical pleats were put in the back of the uniform,two elliptical gussets were spliced under the arm,the sleeve style was changed from cut sleeve to raglan sleeve and knitted cut pieces were spliced to the uniform,etc.were compared for study.After subjective tension and restrain as well as objective clothing pressure were tested,the data were analyzed by using AHP method,and the influence of proposed design mentioned above on the clothing pressure and the relationship between inner space and pressure comfort of the uniform were analyzed.Results show that all the construction design proposed can improve the pressure comfort of the uniform.The sleeve type was the most obvious factor that influences pressure comfort and the uniform which own elliptical gussets,pleats that use knitted fabric and cut sleeve style provides the best shoulder and back pressure comfort.
出处
《北京服装学院学报(自然科学版)》
CAS
北大核心
2015年第4期33-41,共9页
Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology:Natural Science Edition
基金
总后勤部军需装备研究所项目"夏作训服"
关键词
作训服
压迫感
束缚感
服装压
AHP
combat uniform
tension
restraint
clothing pressure
AHP