明代环编绣獬豸胸背技术复原研究

Research on technical restoration of the needlelooping Xie Zhi badges in Ming dynasty

以中国丝绸博物馆馆藏的一件明代胸背为研究对象,从文化角度对胸背中的神兽形象进行考证,通过比对明代文献、图像及实物中的"麒麟"与"獬豸"的异同,建议将原考古报告中补服称谓的"麒麟"更名为"獬豸"。其次,从技术角度对胸背的主体环编工艺进行分析与复原实践,通过实地考察文物、比对同期实物等方法,对复原胸背的配色进行了推断,选定了能形成原物外观的材料,将胸背不同部位的工艺技法分项处理,最终按等比例、同工艺完成该獬豸胸背的技术复原。

This paper is based on one of badges in Ming dynasty collected in China National Silk Museum. The image of mythical creatures is investigated from euhural perspective. Through comparing similarities and differences of ＂QiLin＂ and ＂XieZhi＂ in literatures, images and material objects, it is suggested that ＂ QiLin＂ in original archaeology report should be changed to ＂XieZhi ＂. Besides, this paper analyzes and restores needlelooping technology of badge from technical perspective. Through field investigation and comparison of material objects, the role of restored badge is inferred. Meanwhile, the materials which eau form the appearance of original object are selected. Craft and techniques of different parts of badge are finally applied to complete technical restoration of ＂XieZhi＂ badges.