纬编提花鞋面材料的样板设计与开发

Pattern Design and Development of Weft Knitted Jacquard Shoe Upper Material

为实现纬编鞋面材料开发的高效化和规范化,在深入研究纬编工艺原理的基础上,结合制鞋行业要求,设计开发纬编提花鞋面,总结出完整的鞋面成形方法及流程,包括鞋楦设计、平面样板设计、功能分区、版型设计、上机织造等。并针对中等运动量鞋面的编织工艺进行研究,包括设备参数、原料选择、组织结构、工艺参数、后整理等。该纬编鞋面平面样板的适用性好,结合提花和翻针等技术形成不同的组织结构及花型色彩变化,可用于纬编提花鞋面材料的研究与开发。

In order to achieve the high ef^cient and standard development of weft knitted jacquard shoe upper material, and based on a further study of the weft knitting principles, the paper develops a new kind of weft knit- ted jacquard shoe upper combined with the requirements of shoe-making industry, and summarizes the whole shap- ing method and the process, such as last design, flat pattern design, function division, pattern design, weft knit- ting, etc. In addition, it also studies the knitting technology of shoe upper with moderate amount of motion, in- eluding equipment parameters, raw material selection, patterns, technical parameters, post-fishing and so on. The applicability of the flat pattern of weft knitted shoe upper is better when combined with different knitting structures and pattern colors by the jacquard technology and the loop transferring method, which can be used as weft knitted jacquard shoe upper material.