天丝、腈纶、羊毛针织粗细双面布生产实践

Development of Tencel/Acrylic/Wool Knitted Double-sided Fabric with Coarse and Fine Appearance

基于天丝、腈纶、羊毛性能特点,选择20.8 tex天丝、腈纶、羊毛混纺纱(54:40:6),在18针/25.4 mm的卜硕双面罗纹机上以正面双纱、反面单纱的编织方式,设计开发一款具有粗细外观风格的双面布。阐述面料编织工艺,如设备参数、织针排列、三角排列、穿纱方式等,并对面料染色工艺进行研究。该针织粗细双面布具有柔软蓬松、外表粗犷、内里细腻等特点,适于制作贴身穿春秋季时装面料。

Based on the properties of teneel, acrylic, wool, the paper develops a new kind of double-sided fabric with coarse-fine appearance style on 18 gauge Bushuo double rib knitting machines by using 20.8 rex tencel/ acrylic/wool blended yarn （54：40：6）, which employs a double yarn at face and a single yarn at back. It introduces in detail the knitting technology including equipment parameters, needle arrangement, cam arrangement, threading ways, and studies of the dyeing technology. The results show that the coarse-fine style double-sided fabric has soft hand, ruggedness surface and fine inner, which can be used in intimate garment fabrics.