弹力牛仔的退浆工艺

Desizing processes of stretch denim

分别采用烧碱、退浆酶DL、柔软剂OK、枧油DSC、热水和氨纶保护剂BFC等6种退浆剂,在一定温度下对弹力牛仔进行退浆。通过测试退浆率、纬向收缩率、急弹回复角、颜色深度及施加一定张力后的纬向伸长回复率等性能,对6种方法进行比较。结果表明,当氨纶保护剂BFC为2 g/L、退浆时间15 min、退浆温度50℃时,弹力牛仔的弹性变化最小,且退浆效果最好。

The stretch denim fabrics are desized by sodium hydroxide, amylase DL, softener OK, deter- gent DSC, hot water and spandex protectant BFC separately under different temperatures and time, the rate of desizing, weft shrinkage, recovery angle, color strength and elongation recovery percentage of both untreated and treated fabrics are measured to evaluate the desizing performance. The results show that less elasticity loss is achieved by the use of spandex protectant BFC. The treated fabric fea- tures best desizing results under the condition of desizing at 50 ℃ for 15 min with spandex protectant BFC of 2, g/L.