北方汉族民间腰包造型分析

Composition analysis of waist pouch used by Han people in North China

为解读北方汉族民间腰包的造型文化,通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆与台州刺绣博物馆腰包实物藏品的分类研究可以发现,北方腰包主要有碗形"掳兜"和长带型"满腰转"2种形式,掳兜腰包造型丰富,使用广泛。通过地域、款式之间的对比分析得出,北方汉族传统腰包具有款式规范化、造型平面化、面料节约化、纹样写意化和构图均衡化的造型特点;民间腰包造型艺术反映了传统汉族服饰文化中注重传统,遵循礼制的思想观念,顺物自然,因材制宜的造物思想,以及有图必有意,有意必吉祥的纹饰艺术。

On the basis of physical and empirical research,composition culture and arts of waist pouches used by Han people in the North China are unscrambled. By the classified study on collections of antique waist pouches,which belongs to Jiangnan University folk costume museum and Taizhou embroidery museum,It is learnt that the northern waist pouches can be classified into two types： the bowl-shaped″Lu-Dou″ and the belt-shaped ″Man-Yao-Zhuan″. The former was more wide spread and had richer forms.By the comparison of districts and types,it is found that the waist pouches have their own special characteristics,such as the standardized style,flattened shape,fabric-saving techniques,meaningful patterns and the equalizing composition. It can be realized that these compostion arts reflect the classical idea of ″respecting traditions and following rules″,creation thought of ″conforming to nature and according to material″,as well as the ″meaningful and auspicious″ pattern arts in the clothing culture of the Han ethnics.