近代民间肚兜形制及其手工修复针法

Modern folk bellyband shape and manual repairing stitch

为研究肚兜的形制与手工针法,通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆和婺源博物馆馆藏肚兜进行了深入的考察与分析,对肚兜形制和缝制手工针法技艺进行分类,探索性地恢复了肚兜的历史文化记忆。研究出修复保留传统肚兜的纯手工方法,本着遵循田野考察实践,访寻民间手工制作艺人,探寻了肚兜的文化内涵本源,并对遗留下来的残缺肚兜采用传统手工针法进行尝试性修复,证明了手工修复的可能性与优越性,为年久残次的纺织服装品提供参考的修复路径。

In order to study the shape and manual stitch on the bellyband,mainly by deep investigation and analysis on the bellyband of Folk costume Teach and Learn Studio of Jiangnan University and Wuyuan Museum,the bellyband shape and tailoring manual stitch skill of partial repaired bellyband are classified,which exploratorily recover the historical and cultural memory of bellyband. The pure manual methods of repairing and preserving of traditional bellyband are found out. Based on following the fieldwork practice,and visiting the folk handmade artists,exploring the origin of cultural connotation of bellyband,and trying to repair the remaining incomplete bellyband by using the traditional craftsmanship stitch to recover,it is proved that the manual repair is possibile and superior. This provides reference for repair path of the old and defective textile garments.