跨地方饮食文化生产:鲜芋仙的原真标准化过程

Translocal Restaurants' Cultural Production:Authentic Standardization Process of Meet Fresh

针对"原真标准化"饮食文化生产机制进行研究,以台湾品牌"鲜芋仙"为案例,通过参与式观察与访谈法,阐述鲜芋仙跨地方饮食文化生产的机制和过程,厘清此种机制中"原真性"与"标准化"之间的关系。研究表明:第一,原真标准化饮食文化生产是将独特的或者差异化的饮食文化原真性符号化,然后在其规模化过程中进行标准化生产,并不断依据顾客的需求反馈动态调整的过程;第二,在此种机制下,原真性是建构主义的,且应具备独特性,原真性与标准化之间的关系为"标准化是原真性的保障,原真性是标准化的根基";第三,消费者对于原真性与标准化的感知与企业相一致。

The paper studied the mechanism and process of restaurants＇ cultural production of authentic standardization. Taking Meet Fresh, a Taiwan dessert shop brand, as a case and using participant observation and interview, the paper elaborated the mechanism and process of translocal cultural production of Meet Fresh and tried to clarify the relationship between authenticity and standardization. The study indicates that： First, the process of restaurants＇ cultural production of authentic standardization is to symbolize the unique or differentiated authenticity, then produce the symbols in standardization in the process of scale and constantly make adjustments based on customers＇ feedback and needs. Second, in this mechanism, the authenticity is constructive and should be unique. The relationship between authenticity and standardization is that standardization is the protection of authenticity while authenticity is the basis of standardization. Third, consumers＇ perception of authenticity and standardization are consistent with that of the enterprise. The study develops the theoretical system of translocal restaurants＇ cultural production, and would provide reference for those restaurants which are engaged in the same kind of translocal cultural production.